Fujifilm announced the introduction of the X-Pro1, which sports a new CMOS sensor that is supposed to provide resolution that is equal to, if not better than, a full size sensor. Three lenses, the “XF18mmF2 R”, “XF35mmF1.4 R” and “XF60mmF2.4 R Macro” will be available immediately. Techradar has done a full hands-on review that you should check out if you’re interested in this little gem. (Photo courtesy of Fujifilm.)

Sigma Photo revealed the APO Macro 180mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM lens, which is the first lens of this focal length that maintains a 1:1 ratio with a constant f/2.8 aperture. It’s designed for full-frame cameras, but can also be used on crop sensor cameras for an effective focal length of 260mm. It also has optical stabilization for hand-held shots. I will be VERY interested to try one of these babies out. (Photo courtesy of Sigma Photo.)

Nikon revealed its new flagship D4, and is one of the few products to come out around the CES to state a price – a whopping $5,999.95 (why can’t they just make it $6k, really?). The ISO expands to 204,800. You read that right, TWO HUNDRED AND FOUR THOUSAND, EIGHT HUNDRED. You could find your way out of cave when your flashlight battery runs out, shot by shot. Other perks include an MP FX-format CMOS sensor, and 10 fps continuous shooting. (Photo courtesy of Nikon.)

Has anyone heard of Lytro? Yeah, me either. But they are releasing the world’s first light field camera, which has got the photography industry buzzing madly. As it is explained on the Lytro website, “…the Lytro camera captures the entire light field, which is all the light traveling in every direction in every point in space.” I am very, VERY interested in this camera. It’s currently retailing at $399 ($499 if you want red). (Photo courtesy of Lytro.)

So, friends! What neat gadgets came out of this year’s Consumer Electronics Show that you’re particularly excited about? Share with us in the comments, or over on our Facebook Page!

* All pictures, trademarks and brand names owned by corporations and entities as noted.

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For the Beginner DSLR Photographer:

The Nikon D3100 14.2MP Digital SLR Camera is a fantastic beginner’s DSLR, and at around $550 is one of the more decently-priced entry level cameras. The learn as you grow guide mode is a great teaching tool, and will guide as little or as much as the photographer needs. As the photographer grows in skill, the D3100 has full manual controls ensuring years of usability.

Scott Kelby’s Scott Kelby’s Digital Photography Boxed Set is one of the first items I think of to buy a beginner DSLR photographer. I know I’ve mentioned this set quite a few times on this site, but as of this writing Amazon is offering all three volumes for just $40 bucks. I don’t know how long that deal will last, so you might want to check it out!

Every new DSLR owner needs a camera bag! Case Logic has a bunch of great, low-cost items, including this TBC-307 SLR Camera Backpack.

A 50mm lens like this Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II (or the Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF) makes a great first lens purchase when the photographer is ready to move past the kit lens. The f/1.8 sells for a touch over $100 bucks but is a highly regarded and well-reviewed lens. You get a LOT of bang for your buck with this one!

Stuff Every Photographer Can Use (or use more of)

You can never go wrong with Compact Flash Cards and other memory cards specific to your photographer’s camera brand. Trust me, we ALWAYS need more of these.

Memory is getting cheaper and cheaper these days. You can get a 1TB external hard drive (like the Hewlett Packard HP Portable 1 TB USB 3.0/2.0 External Hard Drive shown here) for under $200 bucks. The Western Digital Elements USB 2.0 Desktop External Hard Drive that I use at home – THREE TB, mind you – is currently $220. Keep an eye out for sales, because I bought the one I have for quite a bit less.

Buy microfiber lens cloths in bulk and be the hero of the day. I’m CONSTANTLY losing mine.

You know what else I lose all the time? My Lens Cap (here’s one for Canon). Pick up a couple of extras for the photographer in your life, because I doubt I’m the ONLY one that loses these things.

For the Photography Gear Head:

Any photographer that wants to get their flash off of their camera, but finds themselves limited to the range that the IR wireless system presents, needs Pocket Wizard. The PocketWizard MiniTT1 Radio Transmitter/Flex TT5 bundle for Nikon (here’s the one for Canon) is a must for doing some fantastic and creative things with a speed light. Then when the photographer is ready to go to studio strobes, he or she will find the Pocket Wizard lineup to be invaluable there as well.

The Westcott Apollo Strip Speedlite Kit doesn’t require a speed ring and fits almost any style of studio light. You just pop it open, mount it onto an umbrella stand, and you’re good to go. There’s an orb kit too, if you like your light modifiers round.

Lensbaby has done it again! Their new pro line of lenses, including the Lensbaby Composer Pro with Sweet 35 Optic for Canon cameras (here’s the Nikon) is solidly constructed and offers a wider field of view than the original Composer lineup. Pair it with a Creative Aperture Kit 2 and the photographer in your life will soon discover just how addictive a Lensbaby can be!

Software and DVD’s:

Photomatix Pro is an essential piece of software for the HDR addict in your life. It automates and simplifies the process of developing an HDR image, with flexibility in results that produce an image that is as realistic or as surreal as the photographer wishes. At only $100 bucks this is a great buy.

I highly recommend Studio Lighting Essentials for Portrait Photography. I own a copy myself and will be providing a review on this site in the coming weeks. The DVD is full of information on lighting basics, lighting setups, equipment essentials, color theory and more. If the photographer in your life is planning to journey into studio lighting, this is definitely a valuable resource to get them started.

Recommended Point and Shoots:

The Panasonic DMC-FH25K 16.1MP Digital Camera has 8x Wide Angle Image Stabilized Zoom and a 2.7 inch LCD. It’s tiny and can fit into a pocket or purse, for those occasions when you want to be able to capture the memories in photos but don’t want to lug around your big ol’ DLSR.

Canon’s wildly popular PowerShot series now includes the ELPH 100 HS 12 MP CMOS Digital Camera. This one’s got full 1080p HD video capabilities (including Super Slow Motion, which sounds like fun), performs well in low light, and comes in pretty colors! Personally, I like the blue.

Ashton Kutcher has the world hooked on Nikon Coolpix. The L24 14 MP Digital Camera features a 3.6x NIKKOR Optical Zoom Lens and 3-Inch LCD. This one is somewhat less expensive than other models, but still delivers the level of quality that we’ve come to expect from Nikon. The Easy Auto mode takes every bit of thought out of the picture taking process, other than pointing, composing, and shooting. A great stocking stuffer!

The Sony NEX-5N 16.1 MP Compact Interchangeable Lens Touchscreen Camera boasts “DSLR quality in your pocket”. While I can’t see myself fitting this in my pocket unless I’m wearing REALLY baggy pants, this camera is still compact enough to take the hassle out of lugging around a camera. It can shoot up to 10 frames per second, has full HD video capability, a tiltable touchscreen, a bunch of picture effect modes including panorama, and is compatible with Sony E-mount lenses. As far as gadgets go, this thing will satisfy even the pickiest gearhead!

Gift Ideas that are Just Plan NEAT:

The Celestron 44340 LCD Digital LDM Biological Microscope. This is SO COOL. If you have a budding scientist in your household, or a teacher, this would be a PERFECT gift. This microscope/digital camera combo has the ability to capture 5MP images and video, a quadruple nosepiece with 4x/10x/20x/40x objective lenses, dual focus, and a SD card slot. The microscope is controlled by a touch screen with a stylus, has 1GB of internal memory card and USB slot, 4x optical zoom, LED’s to illuminate the slides, and is powered by 4 AA batteries or an AC adapter.

The MyStudio MS20J Complete Tabletop Photo Studio – 12-Piece Jewelry Photography Toolkit, Bonus Tripod for Product Photography. If you or someone you know is selling jewelry or other small products on Etsy or Ebay, this small product photography studio might be just the thing to add that extra level of professionalism to your product images.

If you feel like spoiling the photographer in your life, you can’t go wrong with the Olympus PEN E-P3 12.3 MP Live MOS Micro Four Thirds Digital Camera. This thing is just plain cool, with impressive low light performance, fast auto-focus, a touch screen and in-camera editing capabilities. It shoots 1080 60i HD video and is expandable with interchangeable lenses and accessories. I would LOVE to get my hands on one of these babies, but it’s a bit pricey at around $875 bucks.

Do you have great ideas for Christmas gifts, or an item from your own wish list that you wish someone would give you? Please share in the comments or on our Facebook Page!

*The Author did NOT receive any products or compensation in exchange for mentioning the Provider’s products and/or services on this website. We will only endorse products or services that we believe, based on our expertise, are worthy of such endorsement. This is not an advertisement.

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Always shooting in “P” mode with a DSLR – A new DSLR with a kit lens can cost over $800. A really good new Point & Shoot camera costs around $200 or less. Why spend $800 and always shoot in point & shoot mode? Actually “P” stands for Program mode but I call it P&S. I actually asked that question once and the answer was because the DSLR takes better pictures. I answered okay, and walked away shaking my head. Of course, as a reader of Beyond Megapixels you know that there are some really good photos taken with P&S cameras as I featured in my post It’s Not Just The Camera.

Yes, I know I can take a better photo with a Nikon D3Sthan I can with a Nikon COOLPIX L24 because there’s so much more I can do with the DSLR. But, why would I pay over $5,000 for a camera and shoot in “P”?

I’m not talking about someone that just purchased their first DSLR last week. I understand that all the settings and dials and buttons on today’s DSLRs can be very intimidating. But hopefully the ultimate goal is to never shoot in the “P” mode.

Always shooting only in jpeg with a DSLR – I know there are times when shooting jpeg is the right answer but always is the operative word here. I know people who only shoot jpeg. When you shoot jpeg you will have a jpeg image. You will always have a jpeg image. A P&S camera shoots in jpeg. A DSLR shoots in RAW and/or jpeg. With a few exceptions, I even question shooting in dual mode (jpeg and RAW).

When you capture an image in RAW the camera captures all the information the camera is capable of capturing and saves it in a single file. So long as you don’t delete or save over the original file you will always have the raw data (pun intended) of the photograph you captured.

You can manipulate it with post-processing software all you want and save it in any format the software will allow. You can save it as a jpeg and you’ll have a jpeg file and still have the RAW file. This is really important stuff. As long as you have that RAW file, you can play with the image in Photoshop or other software to your heart’s content. If you want a different effect, open the RAW file and do something different to it.

If you shoot in jpeg, you will have a jpeg file. A RAW file contains approximately 25 megabytes of data. A jpeg taken with the camera has less than half that amount. What happened to the rest of it? The camera compressed the data when it saved in jpeg format and the rest is gone forever. Then if you open the jpeg file, manipulate to where you want it and then save it again, the file is compressed again and it’s smaller.

Don’t get me wrong, I have lots of jpeg files, but I made them myself by opening the RAW file and then saving it in jpeg format.

I have heard people say that jpeg files are much smaller and don’t require as much memory. An 8 gigabyte, 60 megabyte per second compact flash card is less than $40. At roughly 25 megabytes per photo an 8 gig CF card will hold approximately 320 RAW images. Over time, get three or four of them, download your images each day and you won’t have to worry about how much memory is required to shoot in RAW.

Photography is a great hobby, avocation, vocation or whatever it is to you. It is an endeavor where there is always room for improvement. Take advantage of all the tools you have and work to improve your skills as a photographer. It’s a lot more fun that way.

Photo Credit:

Sunrise Over Cape Canaveral by Steve Russell

Related posts:

1. John Shaw Nature and Digital Photography Seminars
2. Editing in Camera Raw
3. Three Things I Wish I Knew Then

Some of the Pro’s were using SLR film cameras when the digital revolution began and it was a logical step to convert to DSLR cameras and equipment. Others use DSLR’s for a myriad of reasons, but short of saying they’re the equipment you need to capture the best images, I’ll use myself as an example. Tell on myself if you will.

Through the 1980′s and early 1990′s I was an avid photographer. I owned and used two Canon F1s and one T90. The T90 was the first high end camera that had TTL flash and was really awesome when it came out. I shot so much that I bought film by the brick and kept it in the freezer until I used it.

However, I became very frustrated with the amount of grain when I attempted to enlarge a photo beyond 8×10 from print film negatives and the limitations with inter-negatives, Type R negatives and Cibachrome processing for slide film. Since I didn’t have enough money to purchase the latest digital equipment, I eventually put all my equipment on a shelf and forgot about it.

A few years ago I bought a top of the line Lumix 4 megapixel point and shoot camera and started taking more and more photos but didn’t really pursue it as a photographer. My next camera was a 12 megapixel Sony T-900 and I started shooting more.

Two years ago I re-entered the SLR world with my first DSLR camera and I was quickly back in the same mode I had been in during the 80s and 90s. My motivation to purchase a DSLR was twofold. I really missed the involvement in photography that I had experienced in the 80s and 90s and wanted to pick up where I had left off and even go beyond.

The second reason was I had been experiencing a high level of frustration with the limitations of a point and shoot camera. Because of the frustration I thought about what I wanted in a camera and concluded the following:

• I wanted a camera that released the shutter the instant the shutter release was pressed, not a couple of seconds later. That delay feature of the P&S while it sets the focus and exposure was driving me up the wall.
• I wanted to be able to actually get a proper exposure when using flash and the built-in flash on the P&S was extremely limited.
• I wanted to be able to change lenses. Sure, the P&S easily converts from telephoto to wide angle and back, but it’s nothing like shooting a bull elk in a meadow using a 500mm lens and then changing to a 16-35mm lens and capturing the entire scene with the mountains in the back ground.
• I wanted total control over shutter speed and aperture. I was tired of the camera deciding and then not capturing what I had imagined.

Those were my primary reasons for jumping, with both feet, into the world of DSLR. Still, it’s the same guy behind the camera. And, guess what, I have what I consider to be some really good images that I captured with my P&S cameras. I still carry a P&S camera. In fact I’m considering getting a new P&S camera. Frankly, there are times when a P&S better fits my photography needs and it’s great to have a good one available.

I spent some time perusing Flickr Creative Commons and I thought I would share some images I selected that were taken with P&S cameras to demonstrate that it is possible to capture good images without using a DSLR.

I selected images taken with three different brands of cameras – Nikon Coolpix, Canon Powershot and Apple iPhone. I also tried to find three different types of images –portrait, landscape and macro – with each brand of camera. My conclusion is that there are some really good photographers out there working with P&S cameras. I hope you enjoy the photos.

Lantana by littcool1 using a Nikon Coolpix

Golden Gate Bridge by Colette Simonds using a Nikon Coolpix

Truffes au Chocolat-Les Ingredients by Eric Delcroix1 using a Nikon Coolpix

Male Marmalade Fly by Gustavo using a Canon Powershot

Baja California Sud by Vik Cuban using a Canon Powershot

Pablo Fuentes by fotomaf using a Canon Powershot

Not Cannabis by Cocoabiscuit using an iPhone

iPhone Colorado Sunset by Jim Nix using an iPhone

iPhone Aquarium by Xevi-V using an iPhone

It’s okay to have camera envy but continue to use the one you have. As you can see by these photos, a $5,000 camera and lens combination isn’t required to capture great images.

Photo Credits:
Lantana by littcool1 on Flickr Creative Commons
Golden Gate Bridge by Colette Simonds on Flickr Creative Commons
Truffes au Chocolat-Les Ingredients by eric delcroix on Flickr Creative Commons
Male Marmalade Fly by Gustavo on Flickr Creative Commons
Baja California Sud by Vik Cuban on Flickr Creative Commons
Pablo Fuentes by fotomaf on Flickr Creative Commons
Not Cannabis by Cocoabiscuit on Flickr Creative Commons
iPhone Colorado Sunset by Jim Nix on Flickr Creative Commons
iPhone Aquarium by Xevi-V on Flickr Creative Commons

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Recently I read, on another photography blog, an article entitled “10 Reasons Why I Hate Photography.” I’m pretty sure that the writer had his tongue firmly planted in his cheek when he wrote and posted the article but he did make a few good points. His article prompted me to list eight of the reasons I love photography.

When you’ve finished reading the article, please use the comments section to share what you love about photography.

You have the opportunity to capture some really awesome images

As a photographer you not only have the opportunity to see some incredible sights as you move through your life, you also are able to chronicle the sight by capturing an image of it. In addition to being able to visit this beautiful lake in the Italian Alps, the photographer captured an image that he can visit whenever he wants. He can also share the image with others to show them what he saw. A picture truely can be worth a thousand words.

Photography is a great way to meet new people

Go someplace where there are a lot of people around and where you won’t be hassled by that segment of society that is convinced that unless you’re taking a photo of someone you know, photography in public is somehow illegal. I’m sure you know the kind I’m talking about. National and state parks, wildlife refuges, city parks, sporting events, etc., come to mind. The image above is the crowd waiting for Old Faithful in Yellowstone National Park. Set up your tripod with your camera and the longest lens you have mounted on it and start taking photos. I’ve had some great conversations with total strangers by doing this. If you haven’t before, try it. You might be amazed at how much fun it is.

Photography is full of surprises

I’ve written before that if you see a great shot in your viewfinder, you just missed a great shot. The corollary is also true – sometimes you get a great shot you never saw in the view finder. Last Saturday I was at the Merritt Island NWR near Titusville, FL, and just for fun about 45 minutes after sunrise I was shooting directly toward the sun to capture silhouettes of this reddish egret. In truth I wasn’t very interested in capturing silhouettes and was shooting from the car instead of getting out and setting up with my tripod. After snapping off 5 images I put my camera down and drove away. Image my surprise when I downloaded the images of the day onto my computer and found this one of the egret, beak open, fish suspended between the top and bottom parts of the beak. What happened was at the moment I pressed the shutter release the egret tossed the fish to orient the head towards the egret’s throat so the fish could be swallowed. Look closely and you’ll see two water droplets also suspended between the top and bottom part of the beak. Had I seen that through the viewfinder, I would have missed it completely. Lucky, yes, but what a nice surprise.

It stays with you

Photography is like riding a bicycle, once you learn the basics of photography, they stay with you. In the early 90’s I became disenchanted with photography for a number of reasons which could be an article by themselves. From then until January of last year I used various point & shoot cameras to capture the moments I wanted. In January 2010 I purchased my first DSLR. The learning curve was about the camera, digital photography, Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. I already knew, and remembered, composition, lighting, reciprocity and all the other skills and techniques that haven’t change in a hundred years. There are still things to learn about photography but what I know has stayed with me over the years.

It’s a great way to spend free time

If you’re reading this article then you’re a photographer on some level and if you’re a photographer it’s because you want to be. Which is a better way to spend a Saturday, watching the 47th baseball game of a 162 game season on TV or using your photography equipment taking photos and improving your skills? Yes, I do watch a baseball game from time to time and there are some football games I wouldn’t miss for the world, but on more than one occasion I’ve recorded the game to watch later and used the daylight hours with my camera.

Toys and more toys

My wife likes to say that the difference between men and boys is the price of their toys. The old adage fits for women and girls as well. Yes, photography is expensive if you want it to be. I keep a wish list that will always have equipment on it and not everything on the list costs over $1,000. However, there is a certain thrill with opening a box of new equipment whether it’s a new memory card or a new camera body. Remember, whoever has the most toys when they die, wins.

You get to bask in the praise of others

When you take a really good shot you get to show it to all your friends and acquaintances if you choose. I’ve never failed to receive positive reinforcement in return. Yes, they will sometimes respond with a question like, “Wow, that’s really good. What kind of camera do you have?” as if the camera was the only reason the image is really good. I’ve found that if you simply answer the question they will usually respond with a compliment about the photo. Besides, you know that they know that it’s an image they can’t capture.

You can easily change the way the photo looks

Back in the old slide film days if the image wasn’t quite right of if the colors or exposure was incorrect the slide went into the trash. Today, it’s amazing what you can do with an image in Photoshop and Lightroom. I’ve rescued more than one image that would have gone to the landfill had it been a 35mm slide. In fact, I’ve even rescued some old slides that weren’t quite right and I kept anyway – scan the slide, manipulate the image and voila.

These are only eight reasons. I know there are more. Now it’s your turn. Use the comments below to tell us reasons why you love photography.

Photo Credits:
Blue Lake by Wagman_30 on Flickr Commons
Waiting for Old Faithful by nicholasngkw on Flickr Commons
Egret with Fish by Steve Russell9 on Flickr
Small DSLR by jónr on Flickr Commons
Elephant Rocks State Park by fotobydave on Flickr Commons
Uncertain by Brian Auer on Flickr Commons
Camera Bag and Equipment by Steve Russell9 on Flickr
Great Spangled by Property#1 on Flickr Commons
Tree in Snow – Underexposed by Steve Russell9 on Flickr
Tree in Snow-Exposure Corrected by Steve Russell9 on Flickr

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2. John Shaw Nature and Digital Photography Seminars
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The quote above has been said many different ways and attributed to many different people. I like the version above. It’s one of life’s truths, and because photography is a piece of life, it’s true in photography. I strongly believe that to become a better photographer it’s necessary to spend as much time learning about photography as you spend capturing and processing images. If you’re not learning then you’re taking the same quality of images over and over. Because I’m such a strong believer in doing everything possible to increase my knowledge of photography, I take night classes and go to seminars and meetings as often as I can. I talk to other photographers and listen to their viewpoint on various subjects. Learning equals improved photography. Not learning equals…well, you get the picture.

John Shaw

Recently I attended a weekend seminar sponsored by Joseph Van Os Photo Safaris featuring acclaimed nature photographer, John Shaw as presenter. Now before you say you’re not interested in nature photography let me point out that the majority of what John talked about is applicable in almost any kind of photography. In fact, to make a particular point John even used a photograph he had taken of the U.S. Air Force precision flying team, Thunderbirds.

The first day was focused on nature photography and John talked a lot about taking photos in nature and shared a number of images that he had captured over time. Some of them were breathtaking and all of them were ones that most of us wish we could have captured. But it was the more technical aspect of photography was the biggest value of the first day.

Separating auto focus (AF) from your shutter release button. Are you one of those photographers that sometimes gets frustrated because your lens keeps focusing on everything except what you want it to focus on? John advocates, as do many other highly respected photographers I’ve talked to or read, disabling the AF on the shutter release button. If your camera has an AF-On button on the back of the camera you can manipulate the settings in your camera so that the AF is only activated by pressing the AF On button and not activated when you press the shutter release button and setting your focus operation to AI Focus on Canon cameras or Continuous Focus on Nikon cameras. This allows you to activate the AF by pressing the AF-On button with your thumb to focus where you want it. When you release your thumb the focus is locked and you can take as many photos as you want and the focus won’t change until you press the AF-On button again. If you’re photographing moving objects like birds in flight or a football player running down the field, all you have to do is take the photograph without releasing your thumb from the AF On button.

I have both of my camera bodies set this way and use this method of activating the AF exclusively. A word of caution is in order. If you haven’t been using this method and want to try it out, I recommend you work with it a lot until you’re used to the process and the feel of the AF-On button. It will seem awkward at first but once you get used to it, you’ll probably ask yourself why you haven’t been doing it that way all the time.

Pay attention to the gaps. This is the composition “rule” that John demonstrated with the image of the Thunderbirds. It’s also a “rule” we’ve all broken or forgotten at one time or another – think of the tree or sign growing out of your spouse’s head. John’s point was that unless there was a reason for objects to be touching in the image, there should be some separation. He photographed the Thunderbirds in a diamond formation and there was blue sky space between each of the aircraft. Airplanes are not supposed to touch each other in flight, so he made sure to capture the image with some space between each of the planes. The same can be said about an image of a duck next to a limb from a tree. Ducks don’t have tree limbs growing out of their bodies, so make sure there is some separation between the duck and the tree limb. It’s really common sense when we stop and think about it, but all too often we become so excited about capturing the image of the duck that we forget the rest of the composition.

John Shaw’s view on photo manipulation. It’s always great when you hear an expert agree with your beliefs on any topic. This is a topic that seems to create great passion on both sides of the aisle. There are strong advocates of never manipulating photos and that straight out of the camera (SOOC) is the only way to go. Their argument tends to be that if you manipulate a photograph it isn’t realistic. As John pointed out, when you take a photo you just captured a two dimensional image of a three dimensional subject. Sorry, but that isn’t realistic. In the film days, the minute you processed an image in the dark room, you were manipulating the photo. Ansel Adams, one of the best known and highly regarded names in photography, captured his images with the thought of what he was going to do to it in the dark room. Realism in photography is a myth that just doesn’t hold water. However, there is a point where photo manipulation can go over the top. John showed an image of two penguins and a polar bear on the same ice floe to demonstrate the “manipulated way too much” point. John believes that if you take photo manipulation to this level, then you shouldn’t try to represent it as non-manipulated. Of course, having a polar bear and penguins on the same ice floe is pretty obvious and not because the bear would have eaten the penguins.

Here is an example of some of my photo manipulation.

This is SOOC. If I didn’t manipulate it I would probably discard the image. However…

With some cropping, exposure adjustment and a little sharpening I have an image I’ll keep. Which one is more realistic?

Filters for digital photography. John carries three filters – a circular polarizing filter and two neutral density filters. Why those three and why only those three? A polarizing filter reduces glare. The reason the sky looks bluer with a polarizing filter is because the filter reduces the glare of the water droplets in the atmosphere. It will also reduce glare reflecting off the ocean, a lake or pond, wet leaves on trees, etc. The neutral density filters reduces the amount of light that reaches the sensor. This means that when using a neutral density filter in a given lighting condition, you either have to open-up the aperture or use a slower shutter speed than you would without the filter. One of the uses of neutral density filters is so you can use a long enough exposure to capture that wispy blurred effect when photographing streams and waterfalls. Any other filter effect can be created in Photoshop. If you can create the effect with software you already own, why spend money on more filters?

JPEG or RAW? There were over 100 attendees at the Saturday session of the seminar. That 100 may have been more like 200 but because I was sitting close to the front I couldn’t make a good estimate. With a crowd of that size and with questions encouraged, you would expect about any question you could imagine. One question I heard asked multiple times in multiple ways is should I shoot in JPEG or RAW and should I shoot in JPEG and RAW at the same time? After the third or fourth time the question was asked John pointed out that all cameras shoot in RAW. Some cameras, however, convert the image to JPEG and that’s the only output you can get from the camera – point & shoot cameras for example. John answered the question essentially the way I would, just with different words. Here are mine. If you shoot in JPEG what you have is a JPEG image, period. If you shoot in RAW you have a RAW file that you can convert to PSD/PDD, JPEG or up to 19 other file formats and you still have the RAW file. So why would you take a $1,000+ camera with a $600+ lens and shoot in JPEG and only capture about a tenth of the data you would capture in RAW. As for shooting in both formats at the same time – why? Unless you’re immediately forwarding images electronically to a publisher as you take them, why do it? If I have RAW, I can easily create JPEG, I don’t need both. John, of course, was much nicer about it.

I was going to write about the weekend seminar in one article but this article is long enough already and I haven’t even started with Day 2 which I’ll write about in the next article.

There is one thing I want to say about the seminar. When I walked out of the room at the end of the first day, I realized that the second day was going to be free. What I had gained in knowledge and understanding on Saturday was well worth the cost of the entire weekend. In the next article I’ll talk about where to find information about these seminars.

Related posts:

1. John Shaw Nature and Digital Photography Seminars (cont.)
2. The 5 P’s of Photography
3. Book Review – Photography by John Freeman

I’ve received several requests for advice lately, on how to decide whether to purchase a D-SLR or a point-and-shoot camera. Some folks are taking advantage of the seasonal sales to get themselves a new toy; some folks are asking for advice before buying a camera for the photographer in their life.

As with most things in life, there are advantages and disadvantages to both. And, also with most things, the decision is a highly personalized one. So, rather than just give you the, “It depends,” answer, I will try to give you the pro’s and con’s of each type of camera, as I see them.

I’m going to start right off with the caveat that I know it’s supremely unwise to make a sweeping statement about ANYTHING on the internet. So I’m letting you know now that I’m approaching this by describing details that apply to “most” DSLR’s, or “most” Point-And-Shoots. I know that there are a lot of DSLR’s out there that are extremely automated, and a lot of P&S’s that offer almost as much manual control as a DSLR. Pixels ranges vary widely, with competitive amounts of megapixels on both sides of the categorical fence. Accessories and settings allow a P&S to behave much like a DSLR, and vice-versa, in many cases. So, when I make a general statement, it’s because I kind of have to, given the breadth of the subject matter.

I just thought of a second caveat. Neither type of camera will make you a “better” photographer. Buying a Point-and-Shoot to “practice” on, before moving up to a DSLR, may not be the right way to go (for one thing, you’ll learn habits on a P&S that won’t apply at all to a DSLR – and vice-versa). It’s not the camera that takes the pictures, it’s the photographer who takes the pictures! I can’t stress that enough. So when it comes to taking great pictures, well, I’ve seen fantastic shots come out of a Point and Shoot, and extremely poor shots come out of a DSLR. So, keep that in mind when making your decision.

Digital SLR: Pro’s

- Flexibility and Adaptability. DSLR’s are flexible, allow the most control over the end result of your photograph, and offer a large amount of customization.
- File Quality. They allow for a wide range of file sizes to control image quality, and also shoot in RAW format for post-processing flexibility.
- Multiple Lenses. Most brands of DSLR offer a wide range of lenses, and utilize “what you see is what you get” physical zoom (as opposed to optical/digital) depending on the lens used.
- Sensor Size. The generally larger sensor size in a DSLR allows for better image quality.
- ISO Range. DSLR cameras allow changes in ISO settings which are helpful for photographing in low-light situations.
- Accessories. DSLR’s can be fully accessorized with external flashes, remote shutters, different lenses and lens adapters, filters, and just about any other gizmo you can think of to help you get the most out of your photographic experience. The only limit is your budget.
- Attention. This may or may not be a “pro”, but DSLR’s tend to get a lot of attention, especially if you have a big ol’ lens attached. Family members will want you to take their portraits. People will be asking, “Can I see it?” Many will comment, with awe, about your fancy camera, and your level of skill that the simple act of possessing it implies.

Digital SLR: Con’s

- Price. A quality entry-level DSLR will set you back $500-$600 USD, and go up astronomically from there. Quality lenses can set you back a pretty penny, too.
- Learning Curve. Most DSLR’s work excellently on their fully-automated settings, but if you want to get into the nuts and bolts of your camera’s functionality, the learning curve can be steep.
- Portability. You can’t stick your DSLR in your pocket. They tend to be heavy, and get heavier depending on the lens attached. They’re just bulky and sometimes a pain to lug around.
- Maintenance. Sometimes, as with anything, a DSLR will break, or stop performing adequately. Maintenance costs can be startling, especially if your camera is out of warranty and needs a specific repair. If for nothing else, a DSLR requires periodic cleaning (insides, outsides, sensors, even lenses) that many leave to the professionals to perform.
- Viewfinder. Some folks find the general lack of LCD’s to be off-putting. Sometimes it’s more difficult to frame a photo when looking through the small hole of the viewfinder, rather than with a nice big bright display on the back of the camera.
- Attention. Many venues won’t allow DSLR’s, especially with long lenses attached. And, if you’ve got a big fancy camera with its brand emblazoned on the strap around your neck, unsavory types just may take note and watch for you to set it down for just… one… second. Then, when your back is turned, they could make off with it. A DSLR is an investment, and a popular item for would-be thieves.

Point and Shoot: Pro’s

- Price. High quality P&S cameras can range in price from $70 to $200, depending on the options they possess.
- Ease of Use. This is the biggest selling point for most people. The ease of use is implied in the title – you do indeed just point the thing at what you want to photograph, and push the button. The camera does all of the work for you. Plus, P&S’s generally come with associated software for downloading and editing the photos.
- Portability. They’re small, light, and easy to tuck away in a pocket or bag. You can take these little puppies with you just about everywhere – a night on the dance floor, a bike ride in the park, or pretty much any activity in which something small and light is an absolute necessity.
- LCD View. Most P&S’s feature large, bright LCD screen with which to frame the photograph, making aiming and composition very easy.

Point and Shoot: Con’s

- Lack of Flexibility and Adaptability. There are few manual controls on most P&S cameras, everything is tied up in automated settings that may or may not apply to all situations. You’re stuck with whatever zoom range is built into the camera, with no ability to use a variety of lenses. Accessories for P&S cameras that impact image type and quality tend to be limited.
- Built-in Flash. Your experience may vary, but I’ve yet to find a P&S camera that has a flash that is anything more than barely adequate. Plus, they tend to activate at annoying times. Though some brands are getting better at low-light photography without the use of flash – this seems to be improving lately.
- Image Quality. High megapixels doesn’t necessarily translate to high quality. Sensor sizes are smaller in P&S cameras, which make a difference in the quality of an image. So if you’re planning on enlarging any photos, to print for example, keep this in mind. Again, this seems to be an area which camera companies are making great improvements upon, as well.
- Not Likely for Professional Use. I’ve yet to see anyone hired for a photography gig with a P&S camera in hand. So if you’re planning on branching out professionally, a P&S is not the way to go.

So, there’s my brief take on things. Personally, I prefer my DSLR, but I am actually in the market for a quality P&S as well, because sometimes I just want to take pictures and it’s too inconvenient to lug around (and worry about!) my 7D. Why have one or the other, when you can have both! Right?

To be sure, this list of pro’s and con’s in both cases is nowhere near all-inclusive. So if you’d like to share your views, feel free to discuss it in the comments.

Finally, to assist in your decision-making, head on over to Snapsort to compare the latest in P&S and DSLR, and get personalized recommendations.

Photo credits (in order of appearance):
- “My budget SLR gear” by Claudio Matsuoka on Flickr Creative Commons.
- “Olympus E420 DSLR with 40-150mm and 70-300mm Zoom Lenses Size Comparison” by Calgary Reviews on Flickr Creative Commons.
- “Point and shoot Escher” by Page Dooley on Flickr Creative Commons.

Related posts:

1. Better Point and Shoot Pictures
2. Accessories for the New DSLR Owner
3. Going Pro – How to Prioritize Gear Purchases

I recently saw a jarring headline on CNN’s website – there are about five paychecks left between us and Christmas. Good lord, that deadline sneaked up awfully suddenly, didn’t it? So, it’s time for our annual Photo Gear Christmas Wish List! Give this list to your loved ones to give them ideas for your gift, or use this list yourself for gift ideas for the photography enthusiast in your life.

Frugal:

- The Digital Concepts Ps-101 Portable Lighting Studio is only around $30.00, and is a great tool for photographers venturing into lighting and macro photography.

- A handy Five In One Reflector Kit is around $17.00 and is always on a photographer’s list of “must-have” equipment.

- Every photographer can benefit from a Reference Color & White Balance Grey Card Set for white balance correction. It even comes with a handy quick-release neck lanyard. A great gift for around $13.00.

- Budding photographers will get the shot right every time with these Cheatsheet Photography Guides. They’re laminated cards on a keychain that provide “…numerous how-to tips, tricks, techniques, and charts” for metering, exposure, lighting, and how to shoot popular subjects. All for around $20.00.

Mid-range:

- The Nikon Coolpix L22 12.0 MP Digital Camera with 3.6x Optical Zoom and 3.0-Inch LCD, at just around $100.00, is a sweet little point-and-shoot that will be sure to delight.

- For the video enthusiast, the Flip UltraHD Video Camera – 8 GB, 2 Hours Recording Time is a great deal for around $199.00.

- Does your photographer friend globe trot, climb around on mountains, and hike long distances to get “the” shot? Gift them with the Tamrac 3385 Aero Speed Pack 85 Dual Access Photo/Laptop Backpack for about $130.00.

- Digital photo frames certainly have come a long way since their inception. The Sony DPF-V1000 10-Inch Digital Photo Frame comes with a remote control, is bluetooth-ready, displays up to 2,000 photos, and has auto image correction/rotation. A fantastic addition to home decor for around $180.00.

Extravagant:

- The Canon PowerShot S95 10 MP Digital Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 3.0-Inch inch LCD (whew) is already a very popular wish-list item. If someone on your list is looking for a very capable, option-packed point-and-shoot camera, this one sells for around $399.00.

- Want to make their eyes REALLY pop out of their head when they unwrap their present? Get them the latest in D-SLR cameras. The Canon EOS 60D 18 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD and 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS UD Standard Zoom Lens is around $1,400.00. The Nikon D7000 16.2MP DX-Format CMOS Digital SLR with 3.0 Inch LCD (Body Only) is around $1,200.00. The Olympus PEN E-P1 12.3 MP Micro Four Thirds Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera with 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 Zuiko Digital Zoom Lens (Silver Body/Black Lens) is about $550.00. The Pentax K-5 16.3 MP Digital SLR with 18-55mm Lens and 3-Inch LCD, due to be released any day now, is available for pre-order at around $1,750.00.

- A high-balance gift card, say around $500.00, will always be met with enthusiasm. The great thing about giving a gift like this is that the photographer in your life can get exactly what they need. Get gift cards from Amazon or B&H Photo Video – they have the greatest selection and best prices for photography gear.

What is on your photography wish list for this Christmas? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments!

Related posts:

1. Christmas Wish List 2011 – Prepare for Black Friday!
2. Christmas Wish List 2011 – Prepare for Black Friday – Part II
3. DSLR, or Point and Shoot?

Since today is my first posting as a regular contributor to the site, I thought it might be helpful to introduce myself to all the awesome readers out there.  I’ve been involved with photography at some level since I was 12 years old.  The first camera I owned was a Brownie Hawkeye box camera made by Kodak.  I mention the Hawkeye for a couple of reasons.  One, it was a true point and shoot camera with no adjustments at all.  Similar to many of today’s digital point and shoot cameras, it didn’t have a viewfinder that you held to your eye.  To take a photo with the camera, you held it at your waist and looked down through a convex plastic cover over an angled mirror mounted in the top of the camera body and aimed at your subject which was displayed upside down.  If you have an interest in vintage cameras or want to see a picture and longer description of it, Matt Denton has a good article about the camera.

My first SLR camera was a Canon FT QL that accompanied me to many exotic and faraway lands around the world.  It was a very sturdy camera that gave me lots of pleasure and because of my experience with the FT QL, I’ve stuck with primarily Canon cameras since.  Over the years I’ve owned six different Canons including the 7D I have now.  I might add to the lovers of Nikon, Pentax, Olympus, Sony and other camera brands, I’m not suggesting that Canon is better than all the others, but once you buy a particular brand of camera, and then a wide-angle lens and a telephoto lens, you tend to stick to the same brand the next time you purchase a camera body, especially if the lenses are interchangeable.

 Other than travelogue photos, my first love in photography has always been of nature, both flora and fauna.  Among nature photographers, I am a huge fan of John Shaw, and had the wonderful experience of attending two seminars taught by John, once for a weekend and then for an entire week.  This photo of two cheetahs in a seemingly intimate moment, is one of my favorite nature photos and was taken with a Canon F1 with an FL 300mm f/2.8 lens using Kodachrome 64 slide film.

I live in Lake Mary, Florida, a suburb of Orlando, and am fortunate that there is an Art Institute nearby that offers an extensive array of photography courses at a very reasonable price – approximately $200 for an eight week course that meets for two hours, one evening a week.  Most of the classes include “homework” assignments that are critiqued by the instructor.  I have been taking advantage of this great resource since March of this year with the goal of increasing my skills in all forms of photography including portraiture and cultural photography. 

I will end this first article with a feature I often see in various golfing magazines.  The articles usually carry some variation of the title, “What’s in the Bag.”  So, here is what’s in my bag:

• Camera Bags
  • Lowepro Stealth Reporter D200 AW
    for when all I need is my camera, one or two lenses and maybe my flash attachment
  • Tanrac Cyber Pack 6 backpack for field work
  • Think Tank Airport Security V2.0 roller bag for long trips, especially when flying. (I will be writing a review of this incredible bag in the future.)
    
• Camera and Lenses
  • Canon EOS 7D 18MP CMOS Digital Camera with 3-inch LCD
  • Canon EF 300mm f/4L IS USM Telephoto Lens (I will be reviewing this lens in the future)
  • Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM Telephoto Zoom Lens
  • Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
  • Tokina 12-24MM F/4.0 Pro II Zoom Lens
  • Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM 1-to-1 Macro Lens
  • Canon EF 1.4X II Extender Telephoto Accessory 
     
• Tripods
  • Manfrotto 055MF4 with a Manfrotto 498RC2 ball head
  • Bogen 3021 with a Bogen #029 pan and tilt head
• Accessories
  • Canon Speedlite 430 EXII flash and off-camera cord
  • Sekonik Flash Master L-358 hand held light meter
  • Pelican Compact Flash card holder (I love this gadget)
  • 3 16GB 60MB/s (UDMA) SanDisk Compact Flash cards
  • 2 8GB 60MB/s (UDMA) SanDisk Compact Flash cards
  • Infrared remote shutter release
  • Focusing rail for macro-photography
  • Promaster SystemPRO ReflectaDisc 32″ 5 in 1
  • Promaster SystemPRO ReflectaDisc 41″ 5 in 1

Next time, I’ll share my wish list with you.  I promise it’s not as long as what’s in the bag, but it could be. 

Thanks to Vernon Southward for giving me this great opportunity. 

Remember, we live in a beautiful and wonderful world.  The luckiest people on the planet are photographers because we’re the ones that get to capture the beauty and share it with others.

Photo credits (all): Steve Russell

Related posts:

1. Christmas Wish List 2011 – Prepare for Black Friday – Part II
2. Should You Buy A Better Lens or Better Camera?
3. When Someone Asks, “What Equipment Should I Buy?”

Has anyone ever said to you, “Your camera takes great pictures!”? Folks may have the tendency to believe that the camera makes the photo, but that is entirely not true. Any kind of camera, in the hands of someone who knows what they’re doing, can take a great photograph. This applies to film SLR’s, digital SLR’s, and point-and-shoot cameras alike. So don’t be intimidated or feel that your skills have less significance if you don’t have the latest and greatest in photographic technology – it could be that your little point-and-shoot camera has higher megapixels and a greater zoom range than your friend’s DSLR! If you prefer a compact point-and-shoot to a bulkier SLR, the importance still lies with the image that you wish to capture, and how you go about doing so. Here are some tips on taking better point-and-shoot photographs.

One – Learn your camera. Technology in today’s P&S cameras have improved by leaps and bounds over the old Kodaks of yesteryear. You could find that your compact camera has almost as much flexibility and functionality as many D-SLR’s. So, though many tend to stick with automated features, you may want to take the time to learn to manipulate such manual settings as ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Read the manual, play with settings, experiment, and practice. By doing so you can get the absolute most out of the range of capabilities that your model offers.

Two – Control the flash. It is practically guaranteed that your P&S model has the ability to turn the flash on and off. Learn to use ambient light and fill light for your photographs, to avoid that overexposed “snapshot” look created by many point-and-shooters. In tandem with this, using the flash in daylight/outdoor/brightly lit situations can help to balance the range of contrast in the image.

Three – The rules of composition still apply. Keep in mind that sometimes the image that you see on the viewfinder may come out somewhat altered in the actual photograph, so understand where those alterations lie. Many P&S models have composition guides that are superimposed over the image on the viewfinder, which can help you to understand the alignment of the final photograph. Avoid such things as always centering the subject, or cutting off subjects at odd junctures. Keep horizons, lines and angles straight and/or properly aligned.

Four – Change your perspective. One of the great things about today’s P&S models is their compact, lightweight and convenient size. The very fact that you can simply hold onto the camera with greater ease opens up a whole range of opportunity for uniquely angled shots. That you don’t have to fuss with lens changes or lug a bunch of equipment around enables you to walk further, climb higher, and shoot faster. Take advantage of that convenience to diversify the types of photographs that you take.

Five – Talk to your friends. Not sure what kind of P&S camera you should buy? Talk to your friends, ask to borrow their models and find the one that is right for you. Models range in the amount of features they offer, and the learning curves they posses. Three that are getting the most publicity lately are the Panasonic Lumix, the Canon PowerShot, and the Nikon Coolpix. All are similar in capabilities and image quality, and all carry comparable price tags. Do your research and read the reviews to ensure the model you purchase is the right one for you.

Photo credits (in order of appearance):
- “Point and shoot” by Alex Garcia on Flickr Creative Commons.
- “#2 on Explore (with a point and shoot)” by Goingslo on Flickr Creative Commons.

Related posts:

1. DSLR, or Point and Shoot?
2. Taking pictures on Mother’s Day
3. Point & Shoot Cameras